Craft-Wiki - User contributions [en]

Metal cutting die

2026-07-21T16:50:10Z

Ellen Govaerts:

A metal cutting die is a piece of metal with a sharp edge on one side that can be used in a [[Die-cutting and embossing machine|die-cutting and embossing machine]] to either cut out a shape or make an impression.

Aside from the standard thin metal dies (or wafer-thin dies), some companies make thicker dies (more than 1,5 cm or half an inch thick), but those don't fit in all [[Die-cutting and embossing machine|machines]].

== Storage ==
=== Storing your dies ===
Since dies are made from metal, they can be stored on magnetic sheets. This is useful to keep track of which dies you have in a set, especially with alphabet dies or dies that match a stamp set.

Note that a "magnetic whiteboard" is magnetic in the sense that magnets stick to it. You will not be able to store metal dies directly on a whiteboard.

A good alternative for storage is zip-top (Ziploc) bags. These resealable bags are available in 90 micron, which is sturdy enough not to get damaged by any sharp corners or edges of the dies.

=== Marking dies ===
You can scratch with a needle, pushpin, or pokey tool into the non-cutting side of the die to mark where the die belongs; what letter it is (d or p, q or b, …), what stamp it goes with, …

You can also use a permanent marker, but those might fade over time or leave ink on your cutting plates due to the pressure of the machine.

=== Swatching ===
To keep an overview of what you have, and because looking at a die doesn't always clearly show what the die is used for or what the die cut will look like, you can swatch your dies. Use printable sticker sheets and give them a color wash with some watercolors or some light ink blending. Then make a cutout of all of your dies and stick them in a book or binder. This will also allow you to make notes on what set the dies belong to, or to stamp the matching stamp on the swatch.

== Colors ==
Most dies are not painted and have a gray color. However, some dies have a coat of paint on them. This paint might flake off or give off a bit of color, which will be visible on white paper.

== Cutting apart attached dies ==
Some die sets contain multiple dies. A lot of brands sell their dies as one piece of metal that you can or have to break apart.

Breaking apart a set of dies will always give you more options. You can always arrange the dies in their original design if you want a different effect. To make sure they don't shift during cutting, you can use low-tack tape.

=== Wire cutters ===
[[File:Flush-cutters.jpg|thumb|right|Flush wire cutters]]
Flush wire cutters come in different sizes. Especially those marketed for jewelers will have a very fine tip. This is useful if you need to snip apart dies where there's only a little bit of room between them.

When snipping off a small die or the end of a piece of the connecting metal, be cautious. The metal you cut off might jump away. To prevent this, push the part you're snipping off into a towel, cloth, baby wipe …

=== Bending ===
If your dies are only connected in one or two spots, you might be able to break them apart by bending. However, the connecting bit of metal might stick out and either cause wounds on your hands or push through your paper or into your cutting plates. Try to remove as much of the connecting bits as possible with wire cutters.

=== Rotary (multi) tool ===
[[File:Dremel-rotary-tool.jpg|thumb|Dremel rotary tool]]
You can file off the sharp edges of your dies with a rotary tool. This makes the die safer to handle, and you won't get any indentations in your paper or cutting plates from the extra bits sticking out.

A rotary tool can also be used to file down the cutting lines you want to '''remove permanently''' if the design of the die is not fully to your liking.

File:Dremel-rotary-tool.jpg

2026-07-21T16:43:05Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Dremel rotary tool

Die cutting

2026-07-21T16:38:38Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Cutting out a shape from a piece of paper (or other material) with a [[Metal cutting die|metal cutting die]] (or simply "die") with the help of a [[Die-cutting and embossing machine|die-cutting and embossing machine]] is called '''die cutting'''. The result, a cut-out piece of (generally) cardstock, is called a '''die cut'''.

== How to die cut ==
Most importantly, '''check the exact settings''' of your [[Die-cutting and embossing machine|machine]]. Those instructions will indicate what order and combination of plates you will need.

Just make sure you place the '''sharp edge''' of the die '''towards the material''' you want to cut.

You can '''tape the die in place''' with some [[Low-tack tape|low-tack tape]].

If you're using a thick material, you might want to go '''back and forth''' a few times. But keep in mind that this might make your material shift, resulting in a misshapen die cut. If you are cutting craft foam, going back and forth is also not ideal because the pressure will make the foam deform a little bit, and going back and forth will cut off more than you intend to.

== Tips ==
To make it easier on your machine, angle any straight dies you have. This prevents your machine from having to go over the edge of a die with a bump.

== How-to's ==
* Partial die-cutting: only cut a part of your die
* Extending dies: cut out a larger frame or shape than the size of your die
* Positioning a closed die exactly

File:Flush-cutters.jpg

2026-07-21T16:33:50Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Flush wire cutters

Die cutting

2026-07-21T15:56:03Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Cutting out a shape from a piece of paper (or other material) with a [[Metal cutting die|metal cutting die]] (or simply "die") with the help of a [[Die-cutting and embossing machine|die-cutting and embossing machine]] is called '''die cutting'''. The result, a cut-out piece of (generally) cardstock, is called a '''die-cut'''.

== How to die cut ==
Most importantly, '''check the exact settings''' of your [[Die-cutting and embossing machine|machine]]. Those instructions will indicate what order and combination of plates you will need.

Just make sure you place the '''sharp edge''' of the die '''towards the material''' you want to cut.

You can '''tape the die in place''' with some [[Low-tack tape|low-tack tape]].

If you're using a thick material, you might want to go '''back and forth''' a few times. But keep in mind that this might make your material shift, resulting in a misshapen die cut. If you are cutting craft foam, going back and forth is also not ideal because the pressure will make the foam deform a little bit, and going back and forth will cut off more than you intend to.

== Tips ==
To make it easier on your machine, angle any straight dies you have. This prevents your machine from having to go over the edge of a die with a bump.

== How-to's ==
* Partial die-cutting: only cut a part of your die
* Extending dies: cut out a larger frame or shape than the size of your die
* Positioning a closed die exactly

Die-cutting and embossing machine

2026-07-21T09:01:41Z

Ellen Govaerts: /* Self-healing cutting mats */

A [[Die cutting|die-cutting]] and [[Dry embossing|embossing]] machine is a tool that allows you to cut out shapes ([[Die cutting|die cutting]]) and add relief to paper ([[Dry embossing|dry embossing]]) by applying pressure to different layers of materials.

== Sandwiches ==
Depending on the machine you have, you make a stack of materials (called a '''sandwich''') in a specific order, which usually includes:
* some kind of machine-specific plastic '''plates'''
* your '''material''' (for example, [[Paper|paper]])
* an '''item''' to apply the effect you want to achieve (such as a [[Metal cutting die|metal cutting die]] to cut out a shape, or an [[Embossing folder|embossing folder]] to imprint a relief)

You then push this stack through your machine by turning a handle, which applies pressure while rolling the stack through the machine. This pressure will then cut out the shape or impress the design.

Some machines have a dial that lets you change the pressure manually instead of relying on a stack of different plates. This takes away the process of finding the right sandwich for every application. However, these machines might wear down faster due to an extra moving part.

=== Cutting plates ===
Most machines use acrylic plates that you use to build pressure and to cut into when using metal cutting dies.

Because you exert pressure on these layers, it is normal that these plates might '''warp''', make '''cracking sounds''', get indentations and '''cuts''', and show overall wear and tear. It is expected that you buy replacement plates whenever the plates are too worn down.

You can try to reduce the warping of your plates by flipping the plates upside down every time you use them.

You can lightly flatten plates by putting them in hot water while applying pressure with a heavy object. You should not use boiling water, though.

If you have a machine that uses two identical acrylic plates, it is advised to always have the same plate on the top and the bottom. This is because the bottom plate will show cuts from any die-cutting you do. If you use that plate on top, your paper (especially specialty paper such as metallic cardstock) will show those lines. Once the bottom plate is too worn down, use your top plate as the new bottom plate, and use a new plate as the top plate.

==== Self-healing cutting mats ====
Instead of hard plates, it's possible to use self-healing cutting mats. Despite the name, they're not indestructible, but they might last longer than a standard acrylic cutting plate. They also tend to warp less, or they're easier to straighten by carefully applying a little bit of heat from a heat tool.

=== Embossing mat ===
A rubber embossing mat can be used to make impressions with things other than embossing folders, such as metal cutting dies, die-cut shapes from (layers of) cardstock, plastic stencils, …

=== Shims ===
To increase the pressure for a specific purpose just a little bit, a shim might be useful. This is either a thin metal plate (lasts longer) or simply a (few) piece(s) of cardboard.

Make sure you don't cut into these shims with your metal dies.

=== Magnetic plates or mats ===
Because cutting dies are made of metal, they'll stick to things that are magnetic. Some machines have magnetic base plates or separate magnetic mats. This might hold your dies in place.

Note that if this magnetic element consists of small spread-out magnets, your dies might jump to these magnets instead of staying in place.

== Sizes ==
These machines come in different sizes:
* '''Small''': an opening of about 7,5 to 9 cm width (3 to 3,5 inches) - useful to use on the go or if you're cutting a lot of small images
* '''Standard''': an opening of about 15 cm width (6 inches) - about the size of half a piece of standard paper
* '''Large''': an opening of about 30 cm (8,5 inches) - about the size of a standard sheet of paper

Some machines either don't have extended sides (usually the mini machines) or have sides you can fold in. This saves a lot of room when storing the machine.

To decide which size you need, keep in mind the following:
* '''Pricing''': the machine and the plates (which you'll have to replace regularly) are cheaper with smaller machines
* '''Storage space''': how much room the machine takes up in your craft space
* '''Portable''': smaller machines are easier to transport when you craft with friends
* '''Working size''': how large the projects are that you want to make, especially the shapes you want to cut out with metal cutting dies or the embossing folders you want to use

== Manual vs. eletronic ==
To move the stack of plates through your machine, you'll have to crank the handle, which might require a good amount of strength.

Alternatively, you can use an electronic machine that pulls the plates through, similar to a laminator. The downside of an electronic machine is that you'll have to have your machine plugged in when you want to use it.

An electronic machine is also more prone to technical difficulties and might be harder to fix or repair yourself.

Die-cutting and embossing machine

2026-07-21T09:00:24Z

Ellen Govaerts:

A [[Die cutting|die-cutting]] and [[Dry embossing|embossing]] machine is a tool that allows you to cut out shapes ([[Die cutting|die cutting]]) and add relief to paper ([[Dry embossing|dry embossing]]) by applying pressure to different layers of materials.

== Sandwiches ==
Depending on the machine you have, you make a stack of materials (called a '''sandwich''') in a specific order, which usually includes:
* some kind of machine-specific plastic '''plates'''
* your '''material''' (for example, [[Paper|paper]])
* an '''item''' to apply the effect you want to achieve (such as a [[Metal cutting die|metal cutting die]] to cut out a shape, or an [[Embossing folder|embossing folder]] to imprint a relief)

You then push this stack through your machine by turning a handle, which applies pressure while rolling the stack through the machine. This pressure will then cut out the shape or impress the design.

Some machines have a dial that lets you change the pressure manually instead of relying on a stack of different plates. This takes away the process of finding the right sandwich for every application. However, these machines might wear down faster due to an extra moving part.

=== Cutting plates ===
Most machines use acrylic plates that you use to build pressure and to cut into when using metal cutting dies.

Because you exert pressure on these layers, it is normal that these plates might '''warp''', make '''cracking sounds''', get indentations and '''cuts''', and show overall wear and tear. It is expected that you buy replacement plates whenever the plates are too worn down.

You can try to reduce the warping of your plates by flipping the plates upside down every time you use them.

You can lightly flatten plates by putting them in hot water while applying pressure with a heavy object. You should not use boiling water, though.

If you have a machine that uses two identical acrylic plates, it is advised to always have the same plate on the top and the bottom. This is because the bottom plate will show cuts from any die-cutting you do. If you use that plate on top, your paper (especially specialty paper such as metallic cardstock) will show those lines. Once the bottom plate is too worn down, use your top plate as the new bottom plate, and use a new plate as the top plate.

==== Self-healing cutting mats ====
Instead of hard plates, it's possible to use self-healing cutting mats. Despite the name, they're not indestructible, but they might last you longer than a standard acrylic cutting plate. They also tend to warp less, or they're easier to straighten by carefully applying a little bit of heat from a heat tool.

=== Embossing mat ===
A rubber embossing mat can be used to make impressions with things other than embossing folders, such as metal cutting dies, die-cut shapes from (layers of) cardstock, plastic stencils, …

=== Shims ===
To increase the pressure for a specific purpose just a little bit, a shim might be useful. This is either a thin metal plate (lasts longer) or simply a (few) piece(s) of cardboard.

Make sure you don't cut into these shims with your metal dies.

=== Magnetic plates or mats ===
Because cutting dies are made of metal, they'll stick to things that are magnetic. Some machines have magnetic base plates or separate magnetic mats. This might hold your dies in place.

Note that if this magnetic element consists of small spread-out magnets, your dies might jump to these magnets instead of staying in place.

== Sizes ==
These machines come in different sizes:
* '''Small''': an opening of about 7,5 to 9 cm width (3 to 3,5 inches) - useful to use on the go or if you're cutting a lot of small images
* '''Standard''': an opening of about 15 cm width (6 inches) - about the size of half a piece of standard paper
* '''Large''': an opening of about 30 cm (8,5 inches) - about the size of a standard sheet of paper

Some machines either don't have extended sides (usually the mini machines) or have sides you can fold in. This saves a lot of room when storing the machine.

To decide which size you need, keep in mind the following:
* '''Pricing''': the machine and the plates (which you'll have to replace regularly) are cheaper with smaller machines
* '''Storage space''': how much room the machine takes up in your craft space
* '''Portable''': smaller machines are easier to transport when you craft with friends
* '''Working size''': how large the projects are that you want to make, especially the shapes you want to cut out with metal cutting dies or the embossing folders you want to use

== Manual vs. eletronic ==
To move the stack of plates through your machine, you'll have to crank the handle, which might require a good amount of strength.

Alternatively, you can use an electronic machine that pulls the plates through, similar to a laminator. The downside of an electronic machine is that you'll have to have your machine plugged in when you want to use it.

An electronic machine is also more prone to technical difficulties and might be harder to fix or repair yourself.

Die cutting

2026-07-21T08:59:26Z

Ellen Govaerts: Created page with "Cutting out a shape from a piece of paper (or other material) with a metal cutting die with the help of a die-cutting and embossing machine is called die cutting."

Cutting out a shape from a piece of paper (or other material) with a [[Metal cutting die|metal cutting die]] with the help of a [[Die-cutting and embossing machine|die-cutting and embossing machine]] is called die cutting.

Die-cutting and embossing machine

2026-07-21T08:58:53Z

Ellen Govaerts:

A [[Die-cutting|die-cutting]] and [[Dry embossing|embossing]] machine is a tool that allows you to cut out shapes ([[Die cutting|die cutting]]) and add relief to paper ([[Dry embossing|dry embossing]]) by applying pressure to different layers of materials.

== Sandwiches ==
Depending on the machine you have, you make a stack of materials (called a '''sandwich''') in a specific order, which usually includes:
* some kind of machine-specific plastic '''plates'''
* your '''material''' (for example, [[Paper|paper]])
* an '''item''' to apply the effect you want to achieve (such as a [[Metal cutting die|metal cutting die]] to cut out a shape, or an [[Embossing folder|embossing folder]] to imprint a relief)

You then push this stack through your machine by turning a handle, which applies pressure while rolling the stack through the machine. This pressure will then cut out the shape or impress the design.

Some machines have a dial that lets you change the pressure manually instead of relying on a stack of different plates. This takes away the process of finding the right sandwich for every application. However, these machines might wear down faster due to an extra moving part.

=== Cutting plates ===
Most machines use acrylic plates that you use to build pressure and to cut into when using metal cutting dies.

Because you exert pressure on these layers, it is normal that these plates might '''warp''', make '''cracking sounds''', get indentations and '''cuts''', and show overall wear and tear. It is expected that you buy replacement plates whenever the plates are too worn down.

You can try to reduce the warping of your plates by flipping the plates upside down every time you use them.

You can lightly flatten plates by putting them in hot water while applying pressure with a heavy object. You should not use boiling water, though.

If you have a machine that uses two identical acrylic plates, it is advised to always have the same plate on the top and the bottom. This is because the bottom plate will show cuts from any die-cutting you do. If you use that plate on top, your paper (especially specialty paper such as metallic cardstock) will show those lines. Once the bottom plate is too worn down, use your top plate as the new bottom plate, and use a new plate as the top plate.

==== Self-healing cutting mats ====
Instead of hard plates, it's possible to use self-healing cutting mats. Despite the name, they're not indestructible, but they might last you longer than a standard acrylic cutting plate. They also tend to warp less, or they're easier to straighten by carefully applying a little bit of heat from a heat tool.

=== Embossing mat ===
A rubber embossing mat can be used to make impressions with things other than embossing folders, such as metal cutting dies, die-cut shapes from (layers of) cardstock, plastic stencils, …

=== Shims ===
To increase the pressure for a specific purpose just a little bit, a shim might be useful. This is either a thin metal plate (lasts longer) or simply a (few) piece(s) of cardboard.

Make sure you don't cut into these shims with your metal dies.

=== Magnetic plates or mats ===
Because cutting dies are made of metal, they'll stick to things that are magnetic. Some machines have magnetic base plates or separate magnetic mats. This might hold your dies in place.

Note that if this magnetic element consists of small spread-out magnets, your dies might jump to these magnets instead of staying in place.

== Sizes ==
These machines come in different sizes:
* '''Small''': an opening of about 7,5 to 9 cm width (3 to 3,5 inches) - useful to use on the go or if you're cutting a lot of small images
* '''Standard''': an opening of about 15 cm width (6 inches) - about the size of half a piece of standard paper
* '''Large''': an opening of about 30 cm (8,5 inches) - about the size of a standard sheet of paper

Some machines either don't have extended sides (usually the mini machines) or have sides you can fold in. This saves a lot of room when storing the machine.

To decide which size you need, keep in mind the following:
* '''Pricing''': the machine and the plates (which you'll have to replace regularly) are cheaper with smaller machines
* '''Storage space''': how much room the machine takes up in your craft space
* '''Portable''': smaller machines are easier to transport when you craft with friends
* '''Working size''': how large the projects are that you want to make, especially the shapes you want to cut out with metal cutting dies or the embossing folders you want to use

== Manual vs. eletronic ==
To move the stack of plates through your machine, you'll have to crank the handle, which might require a good amount of strength.

Alternatively, you can use an electronic machine that pulls the plates through, similar to a laminator. The downside of an electronic machine is that you'll have to have your machine plugged in when you want to use it.

An electronic machine is also more prone to technical difficulties and might be harder to fix or repair yourself.

Metal cutting die

2026-07-19T19:25:17Z

Ellen Govaerts: Created page with "A metal cutting die is a piece of metal with a sharp edge on one end that can be used in a die-cutting and embossing machine to either cut out a shape or make an impression."

A metal cutting die is a piece of metal with a sharp edge on one end that can be used in a [[Die-cutting and embossing machine|die-cutting and embossing machine]] to either cut out a shape or make an impression.

Die-cutting and embossing machine

2026-07-19T15:34:52Z

Ellen Govaerts:

A [[Die-cutting|die-cutting]] and [[Dry embossing|embossing]] machine is a tool that allows you to cut out shapes ([[Die-cutting|die-cutting]]) and add relief to paper ([[Dry embossing|dry embossing]]) by applying pressure to different layers of materials.

== Sandwiches ==
Depending on the machine you have, you make a stack of materials (called a '''sandwich''') in a specific order, which usually includes:
* some kind of machine-specific plastic '''plates'''
* your '''material''' (for example, [[Paper|paper]])
* an '''item''' to apply the effect you want to achieve (such as a [[Metal cutting die|metal cutting die]] to cut out a shape, or an [[Embossing folder|embossing folder]] to imprint a relief)

You then push this stack through your machine by turning a handle, which applies pressure while rolling the stack through the machine. This pressure will then cut out the shape or impress the design.

Some machines have a dial that lets you change the pressure manually instead of relying on a stack of different plates. This takes away the process of finding the right sandwich for every application. However, these machines might wear down faster due to an extra moving part.

=== Cutting plates ===
Most machines use acrylic plates that you use to build pressure and to cut into when using metal cutting dies.

Because you exert pressure on these layers, it is normal that these plates might '''warp''', make '''cracking sounds''', get indentations and '''cuts''', and show overall wear and tear. It is expected that you buy replacement plates whenever the plates are too worn down.

You can try to reduce the warping of your plates by flipping the plates upside down every time you use them.

You can lightly flatten plates by putting them in hot water while applying pressure with a heavy object. You should not use boiling water, though.

If you have a machine that uses two identical acrylic plates, it is advised to always have the same plate on the top and the bottom. This is because the bottom plate will show cuts from any die-cutting you do. If you use that plate on top, your paper (especially specialty paper such as metallic cardstock) will show those lines. Once the bottom plate is too worn down, use your top plate as the new bottom plate, and use a new plate as the top plate.

==== Self-healing cutting mats ====
Instead of hard plates, it's possible to use self-healing cutting mats. Despite the name, they're not indestructible, but they might last you longer than a standard acrylic cutting plate. They also tend to warp less, or they're easier to straighten by carefully applying a little bit of heat from a heat tool.

=== Embossing mat ===
A rubber embossing mat can be used to make impressions with things other than embossing folders, such as metal cutting dies, die-cut shapes from (layers of) cardstock, plastic stencils, …

=== Shims ===
To increase the pressure for a specific purpose just a little bit, a shim might be useful. This is either a thin metal plate (lasts longer) or simply a (few) piece(s) of cardboard.

Make sure you don't cut into these shims with your metal dies.

=== Magnetic plates or mats ===
Because cutting dies are made of metal, they'll stick to things that are magnetic. Some machines have magnetic base plates or separate magnetic mats. This might hold your dies in place.

Note that if this magnetic element consists of small spread-out magnets, your dies might jump to these magnets instead of staying in place.

== Sizes ==
These machines come in different sizes:
* '''Small''': an opening of about 7,5 to 9 cm width (3 to 3,5 inches) - useful to use on the go or if you're cutting a lot of small images
* '''Standard''': an opening of about 15 cm width (6 inches) - about the size of half a piece of standard paper
* '''Large''': an opening of about 30 cm (8,5 inches) - about the size of a standard sheet of paper

Some machines either don't have extended sides (usually the mini machines) or have sides you can fold in. This saves a lot of room when storing the machine.

To decide which size you need, keep in mind the following:
* '''Pricing''': the machine and the plates (which you'll have to replace regularly) are cheaper with smaller machines
* '''Storage space''': how much room the machine takes up in your craft space
* '''Portable''': smaller machines are easier to transport when you craft with friends
* '''Working size''': how large the projects are that you want to make, especially the shapes you want to cut out with metal cutting dies or the embossing folders you want to use

== Manual vs. eletronic ==
To move the stack of plates through your machine, you'll have to crank the handle, which might require a good amount of strength.

Alternatively, you can use an electronic machine that pulls the plates through, similar to a laminator. The downside of an electronic machine is that you'll have to have your machine plugged in when you want to use it.

An electronic machine is also more prone to technical difficulties and might be harder to fix or repair yourself.

Die-cutting and embossing machine

2026-07-19T15:33:25Z

Ellen Govaerts: /* Manual vs. eletronic */

A [[Die-cutting|die-cutting]] and [[Dry embossing|embossing]] machine is a tool that allows you to cut out shapes ([[Die-cutting|die-cutting]]) and add relief to paper ([[Dry embossing|dry embossing]]) by applying pressure to different layers of materials.

== Sandwiches ==
Depending on the machine you have, you make a stack of materials (called a '''sandwich''') in a specific order, which usually includes:
* some kind of machine-specific plastic '''plates'''
* your '''material''' (for example, [[Paper|paper]])
* an '''item''' to apply the effect you want to achieve (such as a [[Metal cutting die|metal cutting die]] to cut out a shape, or an [[Embossing folder|embossing folder]] to imprint a relief)

You then push this stack through your machine by turning a handle, which applies pressure while rolling the stack through the machine. This pressure will then cut out the shape or impress the design.

Some machines have a dial that lets you change the pressure manually instead of relying on a stack of different plates. This takes away the process of finding the right sandwich for every application. However, these machines might wear down faster due to an extra moving part.

=== Cutting plates ===
Most machines use acrylic plates that you use to build pressure and to cut into when using metal cutting dies.

Because you exert pressure on these layers, it is normal that these plates might '''warp''', make '''cracking sounds''', get indentations and '''cuts''', and show overall wear and tear. It is expected that you buy replacement plates whenever the plates are too worn down.

You can try to reduce the warping of your plates by flipping the plates upside down every time you use them.

You can lightly flatten plates by putting them in hot water while applying pressure with a heavy object. You should not use boiling water, though.

If you have a machine that uses two identical acrylic plates, it is advised to always have the same plate on the top and the bottom. This is because the bottom plate will show cuts from any die-cutting you do. If you use that plate on top, your paper (especially specialty paper such as metallic cardstock) will show those lines. Once the bottom plate is too worn down, use your top plate as the new bottom plate, and use a new plate as the top plate.

=== Self-healing cutting mats ===
Instead of hard plates, it's possible to use self-healing cutting mats. Despite the name, they're not indestructible, but they might last you longer than a standard acrylic cutting plate. They also tend to warp less, or they're easier to straighten by carefully applying a little bit of heat from a heat tool.

=== Embossing mat ===
A rubber embossing mat can be used to make impressions with things other than embossing folders, such as metal cutting dies, die-cut shapes from (layers of) cardstock, plastic stencils, …

=== Shims ===
To increase the pressure for a specific purpose just a little bit, a shim might be useful. This is either a thin metal plate (lasts longer) or simply a (few) piece(s) of cardboard.

Make sure you don't cut into these shims with your metal dies.

=== Magnetic plates or mats ===
Because cutting dies are made of metal, they'll stick to things that are magnetic. Some machines have magnetic base plates or separate magnetic mats. This might hold your dies in place.

Note that if this magnetic element consists of small spread-out magnets, your dies might jump to these magnets instead of staying in place.

== Sizes ==
These machines come in different sizes:
* '''Small''': an opening of about 7,5 to 9 cm width (3 to 3,5 inches) - useful to use on the go or if you're cutting a lot of small images
* '''Standard''': an opening of about 15 cm width (6 inches) - about the size of half a piece of standard paper
* '''Large''': an opening of about 30 cm (8,5 inches) - about the size of a standard sheet of paper

Some machines either don't have extended sides (usually the mini machines) or have sides you can fold in. This saves a lot of room when storing the machine.

To decide which size you need, keep in mind the following:
* '''Pricing''': the machine and the plates (which you'll have to replace regularly) are cheaper with smaller machines
* '''Storage space''': how much room the machine takes up in your craft space
* '''Portable''': smaller machines are easier to transport when you craft with friends
* '''Working size''': how large the projects are that you want to make, especially the shapes you want to cut out with metal cutting dies or the embossing folders you want to use

== Manual vs. eletronic ==
To move the stack of plates through your machine, you'll have to crank the handle, which might require a good amount of strength.

Alternatively, you can use an electronic machine that pulls the plates through, similar to a laminator. The downside of an electronic machine is that you'll have to have your machine plugged in when you want to use it.

An electronic machine is also more prone to technical difficulties and might be harder to fix or repair yourself.

Die-cutting and embossing machine

2026-07-19T15:31:27Z

Ellen Govaerts: Created page with "A die-cutting and embossing machine is a tool that allows you to cut out shapes (die-cutting) and add relief to paper (dry embossing) by applying pressure to different layers of materials. == Sandwiches == Depending on the machine you have, you make a stack of materials (called a '''sandwich''') in a specific order, which usually includes: * some kind of machine-specific plastic '''plates''' * your '''m..."

A [[Die-cutting|die-cutting]] and [[Dry embossing|embossing]] machine is a tool that allows you to cut out shapes ([[Die-cutting|die-cutting]]) and add relief to paper ([[Dry embossing|dry embossing]]) by applying pressure to different layers of materials.

== Sandwiches ==
Depending on the machine you have, you make a stack of materials (called a '''sandwich''') in a specific order, which usually includes:
* some kind of machine-specific plastic '''plates'''
* your '''material''' (for example, [[Paper|paper]])
* an '''item''' to apply the effect you want to achieve (such as a [[Metal cutting die|metal cutting die]] to cut out a shape, or an [[Embossing folder|embossing folder]] to imprint a relief)

You then push this stack through your machine by turning a handle, which applies pressure while rolling the stack through the machine. This pressure will then cut out the shape or impress the design.

Some machines have a dial that lets you change the pressure manually instead of relying on a stack of different plates. This takes away the process of finding the right sandwich for every application. However, these machines might wear down faster due to an extra moving part.

=== Cutting plates ===
Most machines use acrylic plates that you use to build pressure and to cut into when using metal cutting dies.

Because you exert pressure on these layers, it is normal that these plates might '''warp''', make '''cracking sounds''', get indentations and '''cuts''', and show overall wear and tear. It is expected that you buy replacement plates whenever the plates are too worn down.

You can try to reduce the warping of your plates by flipping the plates upside down every time you use them.

You can lightly flatten plates by putting them in hot water while applying pressure with a heavy object. You should not use boiling water, though.

If you have a machine that uses two identical acrylic plates, it is advised to always have the same plate on the top and the bottom. This is because the bottom plate will show cuts from any die-cutting you do. If you use that plate on top, your paper (especially specialty paper such as metallic cardstock) will show those lines. Once the bottom plate is too worn down, use your top plate as the new bottom plate, and use a new plate as the top plate.

=== Self-healing cutting mats ===
Instead of hard plates, it's possible to use self-healing cutting mats. Despite the name, they're not indestructible, but they might last you longer than a standard acrylic cutting plate. They also tend to warp less, or they're easier to straighten by carefully applying a little bit of heat from a heat tool.

=== Embossing mat ===
A rubber embossing mat can be used to make impressions with things other than embossing folders, such as metal cutting dies, die-cut shapes from (layers of) cardstock, plastic stencils, …

=== Shims ===
To increase the pressure for a specific purpose just a little bit, a shim might be useful. This is either a thin metal plate (lasts longer) or simply a (few) piece(s) of cardboard.

Make sure you don't cut into these shims with your metal dies.

=== Magnetic plates or mats ===
Because cutting dies are made of metal, they'll stick to things that are magnetic. Some machines have magnetic base plates or separate magnetic mats. This might hold your dies in place.

Note that if this magnetic element consists of small spread-out magnets, your dies might jump to these magnets instead of staying in place.

== Sizes ==
These machines come in different sizes:
* '''Small''': an opening of about 7,5 to 9 cm width (3 to 3,5 inches) - useful to use on the go or if you're cutting a lot of small images
* '''Standard''': an opening of about 15 cm width (6 inches) - about the size of half a piece of standard paper
* '''Large''': an opening of about 30 cm (8,5 inches) - about the size of a standard sheet of paper

Some machines either don't have extended sides (usually the mini machines) or have sides you can fold in. This saves a lot of room when storing the machine.

To decide which size you need, keep in mind the following:
* '''Pricing''': the machine and the plates (which you'll have to replace regularly) are cheaper with smaller machines
* '''Storage space''': how much room the machine takes up in your craft space
* '''Portable''': smaller machines are easier to transport when you craft with friends
* '''Working size''': how large the projects are that you want to make, especially the shapes you want to cut out with metal cutting dies or the embossing folders you want to use

== Manual vs. eletronic ==
Electronic machines are available. This is useful for people with limited strength and/or mobility in their hands. The downside is that you'll have to have your machine plugged in when you want to use it.

An electronic machine is also more prone to technical difficulties and might be harder to fix or repair yourself.

Main Page

2026-07-19T14:21:41Z

Ellen Govaerts:

[[Paper]]
[[Acetate sheet]]
[[Clear stamp]]
[[Alcohol marker]]
[[Black ink]]
[[Cardstock]]
[[Chalk ink]]
[[Oxide ink]]
[[Die]]
[[Die-cutting and embossing machine]]
[[Cling stamp]]
[[Embossing powder]]
[[Embossing paste]]
[[Embossing ink]]
[[Embossing]]
[[Dye ink]]
[[Dry embossing]]
[[L-shaped stamp positioner]]
[[Stamp positioner]]
[[Ink pad]]
[[Hybrid ink]]
[[Heat tool]]
[[Heat embossing]]
[[Gum arabic]]
[[Gel printing]]
[[Paper weight]]
[[Paper size]]
[[Non-stick powder]]
[[Mirror stamping]]
[[Low-tack tape]]
[[Stamping ink]]
[[Solvent ink]]
[[Wood-mounted stamp]]
[[Pigment powder]]
[[Pigment ink]]
[[Water-based marker]]
[[Vellum]]
[[Synthetic paper]]
[[Stencil]]
[[Stamp]]
[[White ink]]
[[Watercolor paper]]
== Getting started ==
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Configuration_settings Configuration settings list]
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki FAQ]
* [https://lists.wikimedia.org/postorius/lists/mediawiki-announce.lists.wikimedia.org/ MediaWiki release mailing list]
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Localisation#Translation_resources Localise MediaWiki for your language]
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Combating_spam Learn how to combat spam on your wiki]

Main Page

2026-07-19T14:20:38Z

Ellen Govaerts:

[[Paper]]
[[Acetate sheet]]
[[Clear stamp]]
[[Alcohol marker]]
[[Black ink]]
[[Cardstock]]
[[Chalk ink]]
[[Oxide ink]]
[[Die]]
[[Die cutting and embossing machine]]
[[Cling stamp]]
[[Embossing powder]]
[[Embossing paste]]
[[Embossing ink]]
[[Embossing]]
[[Dye ink]]
[[Dry embossing]]
[[L-shaped stamp positioner]]
[[Stamp positioner]]
[[Ink pad]]
[[Hybrid ink]]
[[Heat tool]]
[[Heat embossing]]
[[Gum arabic]]
[[Gel printing]]
[[Paper weight]]
[[Paper size]]
[[Non-stick powder]]
[[Mirror stamping]]
[[Low-tack tape]]
[[Stamping ink]]
[[Solvent ink]]
[[Wood-mounted stamp]]
[[Pigment powder]]
[[Pigment ink]]
[[Water-based marker]]
[[Vellum]]
[[Synthetic paper]]
[[Stencil]]
[[Stamp]]
[[White ink]]
[[Watercolor paper]]
== Getting started ==
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Configuration_settings Configuration settings list]
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki FAQ]
* [https://lists.wikimedia.org/postorius/lists/mediawiki-announce.lists.wikimedia.org/ MediaWiki release mailing list]
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Localisation#Translation_resources Localise MediaWiki for your language]
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Combating_spam Learn how to combat spam on your wiki]

Re-inking stamps

2026-07-11T16:05:41Z

Ellen Govaerts: Created page with "If you feel your ink pad is getting dry because you've used up most of the ink, it's time to re-ink. == Re-inkers == Re-inkers are the small bottles that you can buy that contain the same ink as what's in your ink pad. It can be used to add ink to a (partially) used-up ink pad. == How to re-ink == === Felt pads === # Make sure the ink pad is clean (no stray hairs or other ink colors). You can use a paper towel or cloth to clean the pad if needed. # Dependin..."

If you feel your [[Ink pad|ink pad]] is getting dry because you've used up most of the ink, it's time to re-ink.
== Re-inkers ==
Re-inkers are the small bottles that you can buy that contain the same ink as what's in your ink pad. It can be used to add ink to a (partially) used-up ink pad.

== How to re-ink ==
=== Felt pads ===
# Make sure the ink pad is clean (no stray hairs or other ink colors). You can use a paper towel or cloth to clean the pad if needed.
# Depending on the ink, you might have to shake the bottle. (You should find the specific instructions on the bottle.)
# Either add dots of ink or move the bottle while squeezing, while barely touching the ink pad itself. (You might scratch the surface if you're too rough.)
The ink will soak into the pad quite quickly.
# Test to see if the ink pad is saturated enough. If not, simply add more ink.

If you've overfilled the pad, your stamped image will come out blurry and muddy. To prevent this, take away some of the ink. To not throw away any money, you can always look for [[:Category:Technique|techniques]] that use a direct-to-paper approach.

=== Foam pads ===
The re-inking process is the same for foam pads as for felt pads. Although you might want to work the ink into the pad a bit with the help of a bone folder, the back of a spoon, a gift card, …

Stamping ink

2026-07-11T15:56:03Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Stamping ink comes in a few different forms, both in terms of the ink itself, the base of the ink, and the type of [[Ink pad|ink pad]]. Aside from stamping with [[Stamp|stamps]], most ink can also be used for [[:Category:Technique|techniques]]. Below are the most common properties of the different inks listed, but keep in mind that there are variations and combinations of ink types too.

== Using an ink pad ==

When stamping, either tap your ink pad onto the stamp's surface, or take the stamp and tap it onto the ink pad. Make sure you don't press too hard to prevent ink from getting into the crevices and blurring your image.

== Re-inking ==
Most stamping ink can also be bought in small bottles, so-called re-inkers.

== Storage ==
It's not necessary to store ink pads upside-down. The easiest (and safest to prevent a mess) is to simply store the ink pad right side up.
Don't store them sideways, as the ink might get distributed unevenly in the ink pad.

== Dye vs. pigment ==

=== Dye ink ===
Dye ink is a '''fast-drying''' ink and is comparable to ink in a fountain pen. It's '''see-through''' (not opaque), which means it won't be visible on black paper, there is no such thing as white dye ink (that would just be water), and if you were to stamp in a yellow dye ink on (light) blue paper, the result would be a green image, since the ink soaks into the paper.

When you stamp with dye ink, you don't fully saturate the paper with ink. This means that every time you stamp in the same spot (with a [[Stamp positioner|stamp positioner]], for example), your image will get a bit darker.

Dye ink needs a little bit of time to settle into the paper, so after a few minutes, the stamped image might look a bit smoother (less blotched) and lighter in color.

Most dye ink is '''water-based''', which means you can use it to watercolor with, but coloring an image stamped with dye ink with a watercolor medium will smear the stamped image.

Note that some dye inks are not made to stamp, but rather for techniques. This ink is often called water-reactive, even though all dye inks will react with water, albeit more subtly.

=== Pigment ink ===
Pigment ink resembles the paint you would put on your wall. It's '''opaque''' (not see-through), which means you can stamp on dark or black paper. If you were to stamp in a yellow pigment ink on (light) blue paper, the result would be a yellow image, since the pigment ink lies on top of the paper.

When you stamp with a pigment ink, the result will be the true color of the ink pad (assuming your ink pad is saturated with ink).

Pigment ink is '''slow-drying''', which means it's easy to use with heat embossing. If you stamp on paper that has a relatively smooth surface, you might have to heat-set your ink with a heat gun in order for the ink to fully dry.

Some pigment ink has a chalky, ultra-matte finish. This ink is called "chalk ink" but behaves the same as other pigment inks.

== Bases ==
Inks can be made with different bases: water, oil, or solvent.

* '''Water-based''': is easy to clean up with just water, can be used to watercolor with, or for techniques, …
* '''Oil-based''': is usually water-resistant wich means it can be used to stamp an image you want to color in with a water-based medium. These inks tend to produce very crisp images, which means they're very suited to stamp text or very detailed images. They also dry a bit slower than dye ink, which means you can use them for heat embossing.
* '''Solvent-based''': the solvent used is often alcohol. This ink is very well suited to stamp on slick surfaces such as glossy paper, acetate, vellum, … Since these inks contain a volatile solvent, the ink pad also dries out very quickly. They usually come with an extra protective piece of plastic, but a [[Re-inking stamps|reinker]] is often a necessity.

The most important thing to note is that the base of the ink and the medium you want to add to the stamped image should be '''different'''.

For example, if you want to color in an image with watercolor paints or a water-based marker, you should not stamp with a water-based ink.
Likewise, if you want to use alcohol markers to color in an image, don't use a solvent-based ink.

== Hybrid ==
Some inks are called "hybrid", "fusion", or "amalgam", which means they combine either multiple bases or multiple types of inks.

Some of these inks are formulated to work with both water-based and alcohol-based coloring mediums.

== Archival ==
When an ink is marked as being archival, it means the colors will not fade over time. Most archival inks are also waterproof.

== Well-liked inks for specific purposes ==
These inks are generally recommended by crafters and experts, but results may vary based on a number of other factors (paper used, humidity, experience, new or old products, …).

* Technique inks
** Tim Holtz Distress (dye)
** Tim Holtz Distress Oxide (dye + pigment)
* Oil-based pigment ink for crisp images and text
** VersaFine and VersaFine Clair
* To combine with alcohol markers
** Tsukineko Memento
** Gina K. Designs Amalgam Ink (for coloring with water-based mediums as well)
* Solvent-based ink to stamp on porous surfaces such as acetate, glossy or metallic paper, …
** Tsukineko StazOn
* Gold pigment inks with a subtle shimmer
** Altenew Gold Pigment Ink
** Tsukineko Brilliance
* Generic dye inks for stamping and ink blending
** Altenew
** Gina K. Designs
** Hero Arts
** Catherine Pooler
** Pinkfresh Studio
** Concord & 9th

== Special ink ==
* [[White ink]]: different kinds of white inks
* [[Transparent ink]] or embossing ink: what you can do with transparent ink

[[Category:Ink]]
[[Category:Stamping]]

MediaWiki:Common.css

2026-07-11T15:49:18Z

Ellen Govaerts:

/* CSS placed here will be applied to all skins */

#p-logo-text, #user-tools, #mw-page-header-links { display: none; }

body.mw-anon #mw-page-header-links, #mw-related-navigation, li#footer-places-privacy, li#footer-places-disclaimers
{
display: none !important;
}

#catlinks {
display: block;
}

li > ul {
margin-top: 0px;
}

Stamping ink

2026-07-11T15:42:36Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Stamping ink comes in a few different forms, both in terms of the ink itself, the base of the ink, and the type of [[Ink pad|ink pad]]. Aside from stamping with [[Stamp|stamps]], most ink can also be used for [[:Category:Technique|techniques]]. Below are the most common properties of the different inks listed, but keep in mind that there are variations and combinations of ink types too.

== Using an ink pad ==

When stamping, either tap your ink pad onto the stamp's surface, or take the stamp and tap it onto the ink pad. Make sure you don't press too hard to prevent ink from getting into the crevices and blurring your image.

== Re-inking ==
Most stamping ink can also be bought in small bottles, so-called re-inkers.

== Dye vs. pigment ==

=== Dye ink ===
Dye ink is a '''fast-drying''' ink and is comparable to ink in a fountain pen. It's '''see-through''' (not opaque), which means it won't be visible on black paper, there is no such thing as white dye ink (that would just be water), and if you were to stamp in a yellow dye ink on (light) blue paper, the result would be a green image, since the ink soaks into the paper.

When you stamp with dye ink, you don't fully saturate the paper with ink. This means that every time you stamp in the same spot (with a [[Stamp positioner|stamp positioner]], for example), your image will get a bit darker.

Dye ink needs a little bit of time to settle into the paper, so after a few minutes, the stamped image might look a bit smoother (less blotched) and lighter in color.

Most dye ink is '''water-based''', which means you can use it to watercolor with, but coloring an image stamped with dye ink with a watercolor medium will smear the stamped image.

Note that some dye inks are not made to stamp, but rather for techniques. This ink is often called water-reactive, even though all dye inks will react with water, albeit more subtly.

=== Pigment ink ===
Pigment ink resembles the paint you would put on your wall. It's '''opaque''' (not see-through), which means you can stamp on dark or black paper. If you were to stamp in a yellow pigment ink on (light) blue paper, the result would be a yellow image, since the pigment ink lies on top of the paper.

When you stamp with a pigment ink, the result will be the true color of the ink pad (assuming your ink pad is saturated with ink).

Pigment ink is '''slow-drying''', which means it's easy to use with heat embossing. If you stamp on paper that has a relatively smooth surface, you might have to heat-set your ink with a heat gun in order for the ink to fully dry.

Some pigment ink has a chalky, ultra-matte finish. This ink is called "chalk ink" but behaves the same as other pigment inks.

== Bases ==
Inks can be made with different bases: water, oil, or solvent.

* '''Water-based''': is easy to clean up with just water, can be used to watercolor with, or for techniques, …
* '''Oil-based''': is usually water-resistant wich means it can be used to stamp an image you want to color in with a water-based medium. These inks tend to produce very crisp images, which means they're very suited to stamp text or very detailed images. They also dry a bit slower than dye ink, which means you can use them for heat embossing.
* '''Solvent-based''': the solvent used is often alcohol. This ink is very well suited to stamp on slick surfaces such as glossy paper, acetate, vellum, … Since these inks contain a volatile solvent, the ink pad also dries out very quickly. They usually come with an extra protective piece of plastic, but a [[Re-inking stamps|reinker]] is often a necessity.

The most important thing to note is that the base of the ink and the medium you want to add to the stamped image should be '''different'''.

For example, if you want to color in an image with watercolor paints or a water-based marker, you should not stamp with a water-based ink.
Likewise, if you want to use alcohol markers to color in an image, don't use a solvent-based ink.

== Hybrid ==
Some inks are called "hybrid", "fusion", or "amalgam", which means they combine either multiple bases or multiple types of inks.

Some of these inks are formulated to work with both water-based and alcohol-based coloring mediums.

== Archival ==
When an ink is marked as being archival, it means the colors will not fade over time. Most archival inks are also waterproof.

== Well-liked inks for specific purposes ==
These inks are generally recommended by crafters and experts, but results may vary based on a number of other factors (paper used, humidity, experience, new or old products, …).

* Technique inks
** Tim Holtz Distress (dye)
** Tim Holtz Distress Oxide (dye + pigment)
* Oil-based pigment ink for crisp images and text
** VersaFine and VersaFine Clair
* To combine with alcohol markers
** Tsukineko Memento
** Gina K. Designs Amalgam Ink (for coloring with water-based mediums as well)
* Solvent-based ink to stamp on porous surfaces such as acetate, glossy or metallic paper, …
** Tsukineko StazOn
* Gold pigment inks with a subtle shimmer
** Altenew Gold Pigment Ink
** Tsukineko Brilliance
* Generic dye inks for stamping and ink blending
** Altenew
** Gina K. Designs
** Hero Arts
** Catherine Pooler
** Pinkfresh Studio
** Concord & 9th

== Special ink ==
* [[White ink]]: different kinds of white inks
* [[Transparent ink]] or embossing ink: what you can do with transparent ink

[[Category:Ink]]
[[Category:Stamping]]

Stamping ink

2026-07-11T14:11:40Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Stamp

2026-07-11T14:10:40Z

Ellen Govaerts: Created page with "Stamps are available in different materials and designs. == Rubber stamps == Rubber stamps often come in a brownish-red or gray color. Rubber stamps can have highly detailed images. === Wood-mounted stamps === Wood-mounted stamps are rubber stamps that are attached to a wooden block. There's usually an extra layer of foam in between the block and the rubber, and the block itself contains an image (often a sticker) of the image itself. Because rubber stamps are not see-..."

Stamps are available in different materials and designs.
== Rubber stamps ==
Rubber stamps often come in a brownish-red or gray color.

Rubber stamps can have highly detailed images.
=== Wood-mounted stamps ===
Wood-mounted stamps are rubber stamps that are attached to a wooden block. There's usually an extra layer of foam in between the block and the rubber, and the block itself contains an image (often a sticker) of the image itself.

Because rubber stamps are not see-through, a wood-mounted stamp can be hard to place. You can use an L-shaped stamp positioner to get more precise placement.

=== Cling stamps ===
Some rubber stamps have a layer of foam on the back that has a shiny side instead of a wooden block. This foam layer often contains a protective layer that can be removed to reveal a slightly tacky material. This means these stamps can be used with [[Acrylic stamping block|acrylic stamping blocks]] because they will cling to it, hence the name.

=== Unmounted stamps ===
Some stamps are sold without a handle or extra layer of any kind. You can either attach a layer of craft foam or mounting foam yourself, or you can attach it to a [[Acrylic stamping block|stamping block]] or stamp positioner with double-sided tape, removable tape or by adding some tacky-when-dry glue to the back of the stamp.

== Clear stamps ==
Clear stamps are, as the name implies, see-through, which makes positioning an image much easier than when using rubber stamps.

These stamps are usually cheaper than rubber stamps because they require fewer materials and are more compact to store.

Note that clear stamps might stain after use (especially with any red dyes), but this does not change the quality of the stamp or the stamped image.

Depending on the ink you're using, you will need to [[Cleaning stamps|clean your stamps]] with specific tools and products.

A new clear stamp might need priming if the ink beads up on the surface: use a regular white eraser, your finger, or stamp cleaner to clean the stamping surface of the stamp.

Clear stamps come in two materials:
* Photopolymer:
** higher quality
** takes ink quite well
** a bit more firm than silicone
** feels a bit sticky
** can discolor into a yellow shade if exposed to heat and/or UV (such as sunlight), but this does not change the quality of the stamped image
* Silicone:
** lower quality
** doesn't take ink as well (ink might pool)
** is softer than photopolymer which makes it easy to press too hard and get an image that's less sharp
** might disintegrate if it's stored on acetate sheets or specific types of plastic

[[Category:Stamping]]
[[Category:Basics]]
[[Category:Tools]]

Acrylic stamping block

2026-07-11T13:54:38Z

Ellen Govaerts: Created page with "Acrylic stamping blocks The main purpose of a clear acrylic stamping block is to use unmounted (clear) stamps. These stamping blocks come in different shapes and sizes: * Square, rectangular, circular, ... * With or without grid lines to help with straight stamping * Straight, curved, wavy, ... sides that can help with grip * Different thicknesses (where a thicker block is usually a bit easier to handle) Be cautious when..."

[[File:Acrylic-stamping-blocks.jpg|thumb|right|Acrylic stamping blocks]]
The main purpose of a clear acrylic stamping block is to use unmounted (clear) stamps.

These stamping blocks come in different shapes and sizes:
* Square, rectangular, circular, ...
* With or without grid lines to help with straight stamping
* Straight, curved, wavy, ... sides that can help with grip
* Different thicknesses (where a thicker block is usually a bit easier to handle)

Be cautious when cleaning an acrylic block with alcohol, since it might become cloudy.

File:Acrylic-stamping-blocks.jpg

2026-07-11T13:50:33Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Acrylic stamping blocks

L-shaped stamp positioner

2026-07-11T13:47:12Z

Ellen Govaerts:

[[File:L-shaped-stamp-positioner.jpg|thumb|right|Acrylic L-shaped stamp positioner]]

An L-shaped stamp positioner can be used to help position your wood-mounted rubber stamps or stamps you've attached to an [[Acrylic stamping block|acrylic stamping block]].

This tool consists of two parts: an L-shaped acrylic block and a thinner sheet of acrylic.

== How to use ==
# Place the L-shape anywhere on your work surface
# Place the thin sheet right into the corner
# Stamp your image on the sheet by placing your stamping block right into the corner (The kind of ink you use for this does not matter as long as you can see the image more or less.)
# Now move the sheet over to your project and place it so that the stamped image on the sheet is right where you want your actual stamped image to go
# Without moving the sheet, place the L-shape over the corner
# Without moving the L-shape, remove the sheet
# Stamp the image in the corner of the L-shape

L-shaped stamp positioner

2026-07-11T13:43:28Z

Ellen Govaerts: Created page with "Acrylic L-shaped stamp positioner An L-shaped stamp positioner can be used to help position your wood-mounted rubber stamps or stamps you've attached to an acrylic stamping block. This tool consists of two parts: an L-shaped acrylic block and a thinner sheet of acrylic. == How to use == # Place the L-shape anywhere on your work surface # Place the thin sheet right into the corner # Stamp your image on the sheet by pla..."

[[File:L-shaped-stamp-positioner.jpg|thumb|right|Acrylic L-shaped stamp positioner]]

An L-shaped stamp positioner can be used to help position your wood-mounted rubber stamps or stamps you've attached to an acrylic stamping block.

This tool consists of two parts: an L-shaped acrylic block and a thinner sheet of acrylic.

== How to use ==
# Place the L-shape anywhere on your work surface
# Place the thin sheet right into the corner
# Stamp your image on the sheet by placing your stamping block right into the corner (The kind of ink you use for this does not matter as long as you can see the image more or less.)
# Now move the sheet over to your project and place it so that the stamped image on the sheet is right where you want your actual stamped image to go
# Without moving the sheet, place the L-shape over the corner
# Without moving the L-shape, remove the sheet
# Stamp the image in the corner of the L-shape

File:L-shaped-stamp-positioner.jpg

2026-07-11T13:22:24Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Acrylic L-shaped stamp positioner

Stamping ink

2026-07-11T13:13:20Z

Ellen Govaerts: /* Special ink */

Stamping ink comes in a few different forms, both in terms of the ink itself, the base of the ink, and the type of [[Ink pad|ink pad]]. Aside from stamping, most ink can also be used for [[:Category:Technique|techniques]]. Below are the most common properties of the different inks listed, but keep in mind that there are variations and combinations of ink types too.

== Dye vs. pigment ==
=== Dye ink ===
Dye ink is comparable to ink in a fountain pen. It's see-through (not opaque), which means it won't be visible on black paper, there is no such thing as white dye ink (that would just be water), and if you were to stamp in a yellow dye ink on (light) blue paper, the result would be a green image, since the ink soaks into the paper.

When you stamp with dye ink, you don't fully saturate the paper with ink. This means that every time you stamp in the same spot (with a [[Stamp positioner|stamp positioner]], for example), your image will get a bit darker.

Dye ink needs a little bit of time to settle into the paper, so after a few minutes, the stamped image might look a bit smoother (less blotched) and lighter in color.

Most dye ink is water-based, which means you can use it to watercolor with, but coloring an image stamped with dye ink with a watercolor medium will smear the stamped image.

=== Pigment ink ===
Pigment ink resembles the paint you would put on your wall. It's opaque (not see-through), which means you can stamp on dark or black paper. If you were to stamp in a yellow pigment ink on (light) blue paper, the result would be a yellow image, since the pigment ink lies on top of the paper.

When you stamp with a pigment ink, the result will be the true color of the ink pad (assuming your ink pad is saturated with ink).

Pigment ink is slow-drying, which means it's easy to use with heat embossing. If you stamp on paper that has a relatively smooth surface, you might have to heat-set your ink with a heat gun in order for the ink to fully dry.

== Bases ==
Inks can be made with different bases: water, oil, or solvent.

== Hybrid ==
Some inks are called "hybrid", "fusion", or "amalgam", which means they combine either multiple bases or multiple types of inks.

== Special ink ==
* [[Black ink]]: an overview of the most common black inks, and their compatibility with surfaces and coloring mediums
* [[White ink]]: different kinds of white inks
* [[Transparent ink]] or embossing ink: what you can do with transparent ink

[[Category:Ink]]
[[Category:Stamping]]

Stamping ink

2026-07-11T13:10:43Z

Ellen Govaerts: /* Dye vs. pigment */

Stamping ink comes in a few different forms, both in terms of the ink itself, the base of the ink, and the type of [[Ink pad|ink pad]]. Aside from stamping, most ink can also be used for [[:Category:Technique|techniques]]. Below are the most common properties of the different inks listed, but keep in mind that there are variations and combinations of ink types too.

== Dye vs. pigment ==
=== Dye ink ===
Dye ink is comparable to ink in a fountain pen. It's see-through (not opaque), which means it won't be visible on black paper, there is no such thing as white dye ink (that would just be water), and if you were to stamp in a yellow dye ink on (light) blue paper, the result would be a green image, since the ink soaks into the paper.

When you stamp with dye ink, you don't fully saturate the paper with ink. This means that every time you stamp in the same spot (with a [[Stamp positioner|stamp positioner]], for example), your image will get a bit darker.

Dye ink needs a little bit of time to settle into the paper, so after a few minutes, the stamped image might look a bit smoother (less blotched) and lighter in color.

Most dye ink is water-based, which means you can use it to watercolor with, but coloring an image stamped with dye ink with a watercolor medium will smear the stamped image.

=== Pigment ink ===
Pigment ink resembles the paint you would put on your wall. It's opaque (not see-through), which means you can stamp on dark or black paper. If you were to stamp in a yellow pigment ink on (light) blue paper, the result would be a yellow image, since the pigment ink lies on top of the paper.

When you stamp with a pigment ink, the result will be the true color of the ink pad (assuming your ink pad is saturated with ink).

Pigment ink is slow-drying, which means it's easy to use with heat embossing. If you stamp on paper that has a relatively smooth surface, you might have to heat-set your ink with a heat gun in order for the ink to fully dry.

== Bases ==
Inks can be made with different bases: water, oil, or solvent.

== Hybrid ==
Some inks are called "hybrid", "fusion", or "amalgam", which means they combine either multiple bases or multiple types of inks.

== Special ink ==
* [[Black ink]]: an overview of the most common black inks, and their compatibility with surfaces and coloring mediums
* [[White ink]]: different kinds of white inks
* [[Transparent ink]]: what you can do with transparent ink

[[Category:Ink]]
[[Category:Stamping]]

Transparent ink

2026-06-04T13:21:55Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Transparent ink (also called clear ink, embossing ink, or watermark ink) is mainly used for [[:Category:Technique|techniques]. This type of ink is transparent, viscous, and dries slowly.
== Usage ==
It's most commonly used for [[Heat embossing|heat embossing]], but it can also be used for watermarking (letting the ink dry and getting a slightly darkened image on colored cardstock) and adding [[Pigment powders|pigment powders]] such as Perfect Pearls.
== Forms ==
When you want to use clear ink to stamp with, you'll use either a regular or small-sized [[Ink pad|ink cube]]. For adding accents, to freehand, or to make small corrections, this ink is also available in a pen.
== Brands ==
The most well-known types of ink are:
* '''Wow!''' Embossing ink pad
* Tsukineko '''VersaMark''' Watermark ink pad
== Reinkers ==
If you're using clear ink on an ink pad, reinkers might be available in either a bottle or a roller.

Transparent ink

2026-06-04T13:20:37Z

Ellen Govaerts: Created page with "Transparent ink (also called clear ink, embossing ink, or watermark ink) is mainly used for [[:Category:Technique|techniques]. This type of ink is transparent, viscous, and dries slowly. == Usage == It's most commonly used for heat embossing, but it can also be used for watermarking (letting the ink dry and getting a slightly darkened image on colored cardstock) and adding pigment powders such as Perfect Pearls. == Forms == When you..."

Transparent ink (also called clear ink, embossing ink, or watermark ink) is mainly used for [[:Category:Technique|techniques]. This type of ink is transparent, viscous, and dries slowly.
== Usage ==
It's most commonly used for [[Heat embossing|heat embossing]], but it can also be used for watermarking (letting the ink dry and getting a slightly darkened image on colored cardstock) and adding [[Pigment powders|pigment powders]] such as Perfect Pearls.
== Forms ==
When you want to use clear ink to stamp with, you'll use either a regular or small-sized [[Ink pad|ink cube]]. For adding accents, to freehand, or to make small corrections, this ink is also available in a pen.
== Brands ==
The most well-known types of ink are:
* '''Wow!''' Embossing ink pad
* Tsukineko '''Versamark''' Watermark ink pad
== Reinkers ==
If you're using clear ink on an ink pad, reinkers might be available in either a bottle or a roller.

Ink pad

2026-06-04T13:11:18Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Ink pads come in different sizes, shapes, and materials.
== Size ==
[[File:Empty foam cube.jpg|thumb|An empty foam ink cube]]
=== Standard size ===
Standard-size ink pads are usually the size of a bank card, whether it is round, oval, square, or rectangular.
=== Mini ===
If you want to save some budget, try out colors, or only need a specific color for one project, you can buy mini ink pads. The most common shape is a 1-inch cube, but other shapes, such as a raindrop shape, are possible as well.
== Materials ==
=== Felt or linen ===
Felt or linen ink pads are usually used for [[Stamping ink|dye inks]] or other more liquid inks. The pad is very firm and does not have a lot of give when you ink your stamp.
=== Foam ===
Foam pads have a similar structure to a dish sponge and are most often used for viscous ink, such as [[Stamping ink|pigment ink]] or embossing ink. Dye inks can be used in foam pads too, but this type of foam will be a bit denser.
Since the pad is quite soft, it's easy to add too much ink to your stamp. So always start by tapping lightly and continuing until your stamp has enough ink.
== Reinking your pads ==
Most stamping ink you buy comes with the option of buying a reinker; a small bottle that contains the pure ink so you can add more ink to an ink pad that's running low on ink. These reinkers are available for most types of ink.
== Empty ink pads ==
It's possible to buy empty ink pads, which you can then refill with any reinker you have, mix multiple colors together, or make an [[Ombre ink pad|ombre ink pad]] with multiple colors. Keep in mind that filling an empty ink pad requires a lot more ink than simply adding some ink to a used ink pad.

Stamping ink

2026-06-04T13:01:40Z

Ellen Govaerts: /* Special ink */

Stamping ink comes in a few different forms, both in terms of the ink itself, the base of the ink, and the type of [[Ink pad|ink pad]]. Aside from stamping, most ink can also be used for [[:Category:Technique|techniques]]. Below are the most common properties of the different inks listed, but keep in mind that there are variations and combinations of ink types too.

== Dye vs. pigment ==
=== Dye ink ===
Dye ink is comparable to ink in a fountain pen. It's see-through (not opaque), which means it won't be visible on black paper, there is no such thing as white dye ink (that would just be water), and if you were to stamp in a yellow dye ink on (light) blue paper, the result would be a green image, since the ink soaks into the paper.
When you stamp with dye ink, you don't fully saturate the paper with ink. This means that every time you stamp in the same spot (with a [[Stamp positioner|stamp positioner]], for example), your image will get a bit darker.

=== Pigment ink ===
Pigment ink resembles the paint you would put on your wall. It's opaque (not see-through), which means you can stamp on dark or black paper. If you were to stamp in a yellow pigment ink on (light) blue paper, the result would be a yellow image, since the pigment ink lies on top of the paper.
When you stamp with a pigment ink, the result will be the true color of the ink pad.

== Bases ==
Inks can be made with different bases: water, oil, or solvent.

== Hybrid ==
Some inks are called "hybrid", "fusion", or "amalgam", which means they combine either multiple bases or multiple types of inks.

== Special ink ==
* [[Black ink]]: an overview of the most common black inks, and their compatibility with surfaces and coloring mediums
* [[White ink]]: different kinds of white inks
* [[Transparent ink]]: what you can do with transparent ink

[[Category:Ink]]
[[Category:Stamping]]

Ink pad

2026-06-04T12:55:54Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Ink pads come in different sizes, shapes, and materials.
== Size ==
[[File:Empty foam cube.jpg|thumb|An empty foam ink cube]]
=== Standard size ===
Standard-size ink pads are usually the size of a bank card, whether it is round, oval, square, or rectangular.
=== Mini ===
If you want to save some budget, try out colors, or only need a specific color for one project, you can buy mini ink pads. The most common shape is a 1-inch cube, but other shapes, such as a raindrop shape, are possible as well.
== Materials ==
=== Felt or linen ===
Felt or linen ink pads are usually used for dye inks or other more liquid inks. The pad is very firm and does not have a lot of give when you ink your stamp.
=== Foam ===
Foam pads have a similar structure to a dish sponge and are most often used for viscous ink, such as pigment ink or embossing ink. Dye inks can be used in foam pads too, but this type of foam will be a bit denser.
Since the pad is quite soft, it's easy to add too much ink to your stamp. So always start by tapping lightly and continuing until your stamp has enough ink.
== Reinking your pads ==
Most stamping ink you buy comes with the option of buying a reinker; a small bottle that contains the pure ink so you can add more ink to an ink pad that's running low on ink. These reinkers are available for most types of ink.
== Empty ink pads ==
It's possible to buy empty ink pads, which you can then refill with any reinker you have, while even mixing two colors together to make your own. Keep in mind that filling an empty ink pad requires a lot more ink than simply adding some ink to a used ink pad.

File:Empty foam cube.jpg

2026-06-04T12:54:43Z

Ellen Govaerts:

An empty mini ink cube foam ink pad

Ink pad

2026-06-04T12:50:00Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Ink pads come in different sizes, shapes, and materials.
== Size ==
=== Standard size ===
Standard-size ink pads are usually the size of a bank card, whether it is round, oval, square, or rectangular.
=== Mini ===
If you want to save some budget, try out colors, or only need a specific color for one project, you can buy mini ink pads. The most common shape is a 1-inch cube, but other shapes, such as a raindrop shape, are possible as well.
== Materials ==
=== Felt or linen ===
Felt or linen ink pads are usually used for dye inks or other more liquid inks. The pad is very firm and does not have a lot of give when you ink your stamp.
=== Foam ===
Foam pads have a similar structure to a dish sponge and are most often used for viscous ink, such as pigment ink or embossing ink. Dye inks can be used in foam pads too, but this type of foam will be a bit denser.
Since the pad is quite soft, it's easy to add too much ink to your stamp. So always start by tapping lightly and continuing until your stamp has enough ink.

Cardstock

2026-06-04T12:28:22Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Cardstock is the collective name for paper with a [[Paper weight|weight]] that is thicker or heavier than standard copy paper, often subdivided with terms such as lightweight or heavyweight cardstock. Cardstock is used as a [[Card base|card base]], due to its sturdiness.
== White cardstock ==
For a lot of [[:Category:Technique|techniques]], a non-branded cardstock is good enough. Especially if you're going to glue elements on the front of your card.

A second benefit to white cardstock is that you can '''color your white paper''' in any color you want, with pretty much any kind of [[Coloring medium|coloring medium]].

Note that there are different shades of white, so keep that in mind when you want to use different types of paper on one card, such as gluing a small watercolor painting on top of a card base of a different type of paper.

=== Well-known brands and types ===
* Neenah Classic Crest Solar White Cover (297 GSM)
* Accent Opaque Digital Cover Smooth (325 GSM)
* Hammermill Smooth White Cardstock (271 GSM)

== Colored cardstock ==
The benefit of using colored cardstock is that it often matches the colors of [[Stamping ink|stamping ink]] of the same brand.

You can always darken your colored cardstock with a gray dye ink or a darker ink color in the same color family as your paper.

=== White core ===
Note that some colored cardstock is white cardstock that has the color printed on both sides (as opposed to paper that has the same color all the way through). This white core cardstock can be used for some cool [[:Category:Technique|techniques]] such as [[Sanding block|sanding off]] bits after having run it through an [[Embossing folder|embossing folder]], or tearing off a bit, exposing the white core.

Paper

2026-06-04T12:24:30Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Paper is quite literally the base of card-making.

== Types of paper ==

Depending on the [[:Category:Mediums|medium]] you want to use on your paper or the look you're going for, you'll need to use a different kind.

* [[Cardstock]] for your [[Card base|card base]]
* [[Watercolor paper]] when you're using a lot of water or another [[:Category:Mediums|medium]] with a high water content
* [[Vellum]] for a muted, subtle look
* [[Synthetic paper]] if you're using [[Alcohol ink|alcohol ink]]

== Paper weight ==
Depending on what you want to use paper for, the [[Paper weight|weight of the paper]] makes a big difference. [[Paper weight|Read more about paper weight here.]]

== Paper size ==
Sometimes a larger or smaller card makes a bigger impact, but the easiest is to stick to the standard [[Paper size|paper size]]. [[Paper size|Read more about paper size here.]]

[[Category:Surfaces]]
[[Category:Paper]]

Watercolor paper

2026-06-04T12:21:42Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Watercolor paper is paper that is specifically made to take on a lot of water and can be made from either wood pulp, cotton, or a combination of both.

Top-grade watercolor paper is 100% cotton and acid-free, but you don't need the absolute best to make beautiful art.

== Hot vs. cold-pressed ==
'''Hot-pressed''' watercolor paper is '''smoother''' in texture and is easier to stamp on. (You can remember this by thinking of a hot clothes iron to smooth out the paper.)

'''Cold-pressed''' watercolor paper is a little bit '''rougher'''. If you want to stamp on this type of paper, a stamp positioner comes in handy so you can restamp the bits that didn't transfer well. (Think of goosebumps when you're cold.)

== Block, spiral-bound, or sheets ==
When watercolor paper is sold in a '''block''', it means two, three, or four sides will be glued together. There will always be one place where there isn't any glue. To separate the sheets, put a bone folder, ruler, knife, … in the gap and slide around the block until the sheet is free. Make sure you don't scratch or cut the paper when you use a knife or a metal ruler.

If you buy '''spiral-bound''' watercolor paper, keep in mind the final size of the paper might be slightly less than what is displayed on the packaging or cover.

Some watercolor paper is sold in '''loose sheets''' of different sizes. Keep in mind that if you want to tape down your paper on all sides onto a surface (to prevent your paper from buckling), you should use a paper size that is slightly bigger than what you want your final paper size to be.

[[Category:Paper]]
[[Category:Watercolor]]

Cardstock

2026-06-04T12:09:24Z

Ellen Govaerts: /* White core */

Cardstock is the collective name for paper with a [[Paper weight|weight]] that is thicker or heavier than standard copy paper, often subdivided with terms such as lightweight or heavyweight cardstock. Cardstock is used as a [[Card base|card base]], due to its sturdiness.
== White cardstock ==
For a lot of [[:Category:Technique|techniques]], a non-branded cardstock is good enough. Especially if you're going to glue elements on the front of your card.

A second benefit to white cardstock is that you can '''color your white paper''' in any color you want, with pretty much any kind of [[Coloring medium|coloring medium]].

Note that there are different shades of white, so keep that in mind when you want to use different types of paper on one card, such as gluing a small watercolor painting on top of a card base of a different type of paper.

=== Well-known brands and types ===
* Neenah Classic Crest Solar White Cover (297 GSM)
* Accent Opaque Digital Cover Smooth (325 GSM)
* Hammermill Smooth White Cardstock (271 GSM)

== Colored cardstock ==
The benefit of using colored cardstock is that it often matches the colors of [[Stamping ink|stamping ink]] of the same brand.

You can always darken your colored cardstock with a gray ink or a darker ink color in the same color family as your paper.

=== White core ===
Note that some colored cardstock is white cardstock that has the color printed on both sides (as opposed to paper that has the same color all the way through). This white core cardstock can be used for some cool [[:Category:Technique|techniques]] such as [[Sanding block|sanding off]] bits after having run it through an [[Embossing folder|embossing folder]], or tearing off a bit, exposing the white core.

Cardstock

2026-06-04T12:08:12Z

Ellen Govaerts: /* White cardstock */

Cardstock is the collective name for paper with a [[Paper weight|weight]] that is thicker or heavier than standard copy paper, often subdivided with terms such as lightweight or heavyweight cardstock. Cardstock is used as a [[Card base|card base]], due to its sturdiness.
== White cardstock ==
For a lot of [[:Category:Technique|techniques]], a non-branded cardstock is good enough. Especially if you're going to glue elements on the front of your card.

A second benefit to white cardstock is that you can '''color your white paper''' in any color you want, with pretty much any kind of [[Coloring medium|coloring medium]].

Note that there are different shades of white, so keep that in mind when you want to use different types of paper on one card, such as gluing a small watercolor painting on top of a card base of a different type of paper.

=== Well-known brands and types ===
* Neenah Classic Crest Solar White Cover (297 GSM)
* Accent Opaque Digital Cover Smooth (325 GSM)
* Hammermill Smooth White Cardstock (271 GSM)

== Colored cardstock ==
The benefit of using colored cardstock is that it often matches the colors of [[Stamping ink|stamping ink]] of the same brand.

You can always darken your colored cardstock with a gray ink or a darker ink color in the same color family as your paper.

=== White core ===
Note that some colored cardstock is white cardstock that has the color printed on both sides (as opposed to paper that has the same color all the way through). This white core cardstock can be used for some cool [[Category:Technique|techniques]] such as [[Sanding block|sanding off]] bits after having run it through an [[Embossing folder|embossing folder]], or tearing off a bit exposing the white core.

Card base

2026-04-01T19:20:18Z

Ellen Govaerts:

The card base is the main element you start from when making a card: the naked folded piece of (white or otherwise) paper.
== Paper weight ==
Make sure your card base is sturdy enough so your card will stand upright. Ideally, your [[Paper weight|paper weight]] is between 250 GSM and 300 GSM.
== Color ==
Using a white card base is the cheapest and easiest option. However, you can use a colored card base if you're going for a different look. Keep in mind that if you use a very dark [[Cardstock|cardstock]], you should glue a light colored piece of (lightweight) paper inside so a message can be written inside with a regular pen.
== Size ==
[[File:Card-base-cut-fold-A4.jpg|thumb|right|How to cut a piece of ISO A4 paper in half to create card bases]]
[[File:Card-base-cut-fold-letter.jpg|thumb|right|How to cut a piece of US Letter paper in half to create card bases]]
Aside from specialty card sizes, the easiest way to pick the size for your card is by cutting a piece of standard [[Paper size|paper size]] (either ISO A4 or US Letter) in half in either direction.

Cutting your paper in half either gives you
* top-folding portrait or side-folding landscape
* side-folding portrait or top-folding landscape

File:Card-base-cut-fold-letter.jpg

2026-04-01T19:19:51Z

Ellen Govaerts: Card base cut and fold Letter

== Summary ==
Card base cut and fold Letter

File:Card-base-cut-fold-A4.jpg

2026-04-01T19:19:30Z

Ellen Govaerts: Card base cut and fold A4

== Summary ==
Card base cut and fold A4

Card base

2026-04-01T19:15:13Z

Ellen Govaerts: Created page with "The card base is the main element you start from when making a card: the naked folded piece of (white or otherwise) paper. == Paper weight == Make sure your card base is sturdy enough so your card will stand upright. Ideally, your paper weight is between 250 GSM and 300 GSM. == Color == Using a white card base is the cheapest and easiest option. However, you can use a colored card base if you're going for a different look. Keep in mind that if you use a..."

The card base is the main element you start from when making a card: the naked folded piece of (white or otherwise) paper.
== Paper weight ==
Make sure your card base is sturdy enough so your card will stand upright. Ideally, your [[Paper weight|paper weight]] is between 250 GSM and 300 GSM.
== Color ==
Using a white card base is the cheapest and easiest option. However, you can use a colored card base if you're going for a different look. Keep in mind that if you use a very dark [[Cardstock|cardstock]], you should glue a light colored piece of (lightweight) paper inside so a message can be written inside with a regular pen.
== Size ==
[[File:Card-base-cut-fold-A4.gif|thumb|right|How to cut a piece of ISO A4 paper in half to create card bases]]
[[File:Card-base-cut-fold-letter.gif|thumb|right|How to cut a piece of US Letter paper in half to create card bases]]
Aside from specialty card sizes, the easiest way to pick the size for your card is by cutting a piece of standard [[Paper size|paper size]] (either ISO A4 or US Letter) in half in either direction.

Cutting your paper in half either gives you
* top-folding portrait or side-folding landscape
* side-folding portrait or top-folding landscape

Paper size

2026-04-01T19:03:30Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Almost all countries in the world use [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International%20standard%20paper%20sizes ISO 216 '''A4'''] as their standard paper size, which measures 210 by 297 millimeters (8.27 in × 11.7 in).

A few countries use the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Letter%20(paper%20size) '''Letter''' (ANSI A)] size (or US Letter), which measures 8.5 by 11 inches (215.9 by 279.4 mm).

Each of these two paper sizes can be cut and folded in a specific way to create standard [[Card base|card bases]].

[[Category:Paper]]

Paper size

2026-04-01T19:02:28Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Almost all countries in the world use [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International%20standard%20paper%20sizes ISO 216 '''A4'''] as their standard paper size, which measures 210 by 297 millimeters (8.27 in × 11.7 in).

A few countries use the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Letter%20(paper%20size) '''Letter''' (ANSI A)] size, which measures 8.5 by 11 inches (215.9 by 279.4 mm).

Each of these two paper sizes can be cut and folded in a specific way to create standard [[Card base|card bases]].

[[Category:Paper]]

Paper weight

2026-04-01T19:02:12Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Paper weight is listed in either lbs (pounds) or GSM (grams per square meter). Keep in mind that the paper might feel a little bit thinner or less sturdy, depending on the finishes that were applied to the paper.

=== GSM ===
GSM indicates grams per square meter of paper. It's a '''straightforward way''' of knowing how heavy (and thus thick) the paper is. GSM is often written as g/m².

'''80 GSM''' is the standard printer paper you use at home or in the office.

'''300 GSM''' is most commonly used for business cards, postcards, or handmade cards. It's advised to use 250 GSM or 300 GSM paper for your [[Card base|card base]].

=== Lbs ===
Lbs indicates the pounds per 500 larger sheets (before cutting them to size). The size of this sheet can differ between manufacturers or paper types, which means that the lbs indication on a pack of paper will not necessarily tell you how thick or sturdy it is. You can find online converters for lbs to gsm, but keep in mind that it won't give you a guarantee of the actual paper weight, since the lbs indication depends on the brand and manufacturer.

[[Category:Paper]]

Paper

2026-04-01T19:01:59Z

Ellen Govaerts:

Paper is quite literally the base of card-making.

== Types of paper ==

Depending on the [[Medium|medium]] you want to use on your paper or the look you're going for, you'll need to use a different kind.

* [[Cardstock]] for your [[Card base|card base]]
* [[Watercolor paper]] when you're using a lot of water or another [[Medium|medium]] with a high water content
* [[Vellum]] for a muted, subtle look
* [[Synthetic paper]] if you're using [[Alcohol ink|alcohol ink]]

== Paper weight ==
Depending on what you want to use paper for, the [[Paper weight|weight of the paper]] makes a big difference. [[Paper weight|Read more about paper weight here.]]

== Paper size ==
Sometimes a larger or smaller card makes a bigger impact, but the easiest is to stick to the standard [[Paper size|paper size]]. [[Paper size|Read more about paper size here.]]

[[Category:Surfaces]]
[[Category:Paper]]

Paper size

2026-04-01T19:00:44Z

Ellen Govaerts: Created page with "Almost all countries in the world use [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International%20standard%20paper%20sizes ISO 216 '''A4'''] as their standard paper size, which measures 210 by 297 millimeters (8.27 in × 11.7 in). A few countries use the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Letter%20(paper%20size) '''Letter''' (ANSI A)] size, which measures 8.5 by 11 inches (215.9 by 279.4 mm). Each of these two paper sizes can be cut and folded in a specific way to create standard Ca..."

Almost all countries in the world use [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International%20standard%20paper%20sizes ISO 216 '''A4'''] as their standard paper size, which measures 210 by 297 millimeters (8.27 in × 11.7 in).

A few countries use the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Letter%20(paper%20size) '''Letter''' (ANSI A)] size, which measures 8.5 by 11 inches (215.9 by 279.4 mm).

Each of these two paper sizes can be cut and folded in a specific way to create standard [[Card base|card bases]].

Paper weight

2026-04-01T18:59:17Z

Ellen Govaerts: Created page with "Paper weight is listed in either lbs (pounds) or GSM (grams per square meter). Keep in mind that the paper might feel a little bit thinner or less sturdy, depending on the finishes that were applied to the paper. === GSM === GSM indicates grams per square meter of paper. It's a '''straightforward way''' of knowing how heavy (and thus thick) the paper is. GSM is often written as g/m². '''80 GSM''' is the standard printer paper you use at home or in the office. '''300..."